Desert Woman On the Road

Adios to Panama!

2012-01-16T17:09:00.000-08:00

A wonderful country! I visited Panama 20 years ago but never saw it like this. First, it was wonderful to be with my siblings and niece, and second we got to discover many incredible critters.
Here I am giving gifts to the Embera children, in a canoe on the way to see them, watching sister Janet connect with an Embera child, and me, the gringo, enjoying a local Panamanian family fair.

Embera-Wounaan tribe Dances

2012-01-16T16:58:00.001-08:00

This wonderful tribe greeted us with music and a dance.

Embera-Wounaan Pets

2012-01-16T16:57:00.000-08:00

The Embera found a River otter and made it a pet. While niece Clara was swimming, it brushed against her leg -- scary! The otter doesn't bite, though, and just goes swimming then makes its way back home for loving and food. The other image is another type of pet but I have no clue what it is...any guesses?

Embera-Wounaan Scenes

2012-01-16T16:50:00.000-08:00

These are scenes from the Embera and their village/daily lives: Cooking plantains, serving them with fish, and the village itself, including the gift shop with their baskets, carving and jewelry.

Embera-Wounaan of Panama

2012-01-16T16:40:00.000-08:00

The Embera-Wounaans are one of 7 indigenous groups living in Panama. This tribe numbers close to 35,000 and mostly live in the Darien region, near Columbia. They live in small villages of several families and continue traditional living habits. They use plants for medicinal purposes, including to keep body hair from growing on male and female children - this is partially so that they can use other plants for temporary tattoos to keep insects away. We visited a village of 113 that is closer to Panama City - a great trip on a canoe up the river. Here the are the beautiful women, one on the river and the other demonstrating basket making. They use plants for dying shredded leaves - gorgeous work.

Panamanian Jungle

2012-01-16T11:25:00.000-08:00

Here are some views of this beautiful countryside.

Turkey Vulture Looking for Tasty Bite

2012-01-16T11:22:00.000-08:00

This is a Turkey Vulture hunting above the canopy in the Panamanian forrest. So graceful and such a beautiful vista from the top of the Canopy Tower Hotel.

Howler Monkeys in Panama

2012-01-16T11:05:00.000-08:00

These are Howler Monkeys. See the baby leaning on the papa? What a cute family, but they make a really amazing sound. At night and in early morning you can hear the howling, sounding like dogs howling at the moon. Very loud. You can hear them howl on Wikipedia - who maintains that their howls can be heard for 20 miles! They hang out and run around the tree tops, using their tails to grab onto branches.

Capuchin Monkeys

2012-01-16T10:56:00.000-08:00

These cute little monkeys are Capuchins - name so because they look like cappuchino coffee. We saw them on a boat trip on Lake Gatun, the man made lake supporting the Panama Canal. We parked our little boat and they became quite curious - eventually finding a peanut on our boat. At one point I reached up to touch one and it slapped my hand hard. We were told NOT to smile because it appears as an agressive teeth baring gesture the monkeys use to fend off each other and predators. Cute AND wild.

Leafcutter ants

2012-01-16T10:51:00.000-08:00

These Leafcutter ants are fascinating. Here I caught them climbing up a tree, then cutting off a piece of the leaf, and hauling it back down to the nest. Fungus grows on the leaves and fungi are what the ants love to eat. According to Wikipedia, "Next to humans, leafcutter ants form the largest and most complex animal societies on Earth." Their nests can grow to 98 feet across and contain 8 million of these insects.

Little critters

2012-01-16T10:43:00.000-08:00

Our first wild animal sighting was at Santa Clara beach. Four wild kitties. Of course, we couldn't resist buying them a can of fish to eat. They became quite used to us and even cuddled some.

From Sea to Shining Sea

2012-01-16T09:43:00.000-08:00

THE Panama Canal is amazing. 51 miles from Pacific to Carribean, it carries much commercial product distribution AND people. The tolls range based on weight and such, varying from $331,000 to $0.36 (for a skinny swimmer). It was a thrill to see how the ships go into the Miraflores lock from Lake Gatun (manmade by flooding the valleys, making mountains into islands). The ship hangs out for about 10 minutes while the lock drains to the level of the next lock (or sea) and then the gate opens, as in the image. The canal was built by USA in 1914 after a failed attempt and turned over to Panama management in December 1999. The Panamanians are doing a great job and are now building a new set of locks for 2014 opening to accommocate larger/longer ships than the current "Panamax" size. Incredible engineering feat.

Groceries in Panama

2012-01-14T12:07:00.000-08:00

Interesting how food is packaged in different countries. In the Panama grocery store I found laundry detergent in plastic wrap instead of cardboard boxes....and the chocolate SHOULD be repackaged to handle this heat and humidity. Check out the melted Hershey's :-)...good thing cuz I certainly don't need more chocolate...

This looks like a Panamanian favorite: EIGHT different flavors of SPAM (how creative). You can get with Cheese, Garlic, Pavo, black Pepper, two kinds of chopped, and for the health conscious: 25% less sodium or 50% less fat (yeah, right). If you aren't into Spam, you can get vienna sausages (on the left) or Pork Luncheon meat (on the right). Just what this vegetarian was seeking!! NOT....

To the Beach in Panama!

2012-01-14T11:45:00.000-08:00

How wonderful to visit Santa Clara Beach on Panama's pacific coast...warm, beautiful and relaxing. Just what a hard working girl needs! It is a sibling trip and we are staying at the lovely Las Sirenas cottages (below). The temperature ranges from 75 to 93 degrees F. NICE...The island in this picture is called "Noriega's Island" because he allegedly used it to torture victims. His compound was just across the water on shore and was totally bombed out.

Ciao to Greece

2011-06-29T16:08:00.000-07:00

What a wonderful, interesting and beautiful country. Here is a parting image from beautiful Mykonos. I hope to return soon and that their financial troubles are soon resolved and that all the wild kitties get all the love and food they need. Love to Greece.

Strikes in Athens

2011-06-29T15:57:00.000-07:00

Transportation workers are on strike in Greece and this delayed our flights from Mykonos to Athens and onward by many hours. See the picture of the Athens airport, filled with travellers trying to move on. I sat next to a man on the plane who gave me his take on the situation.
The people are objecting to corruption because the rich people and government workers take bribes and spend it for themselves and invest outside of the country. For example companies don’t have to pay tax on income unless it is over 12,000 Euros/year so they provide services to clients, providing a receipt for a low amount and taking envelopes of cash that they don’t have to claim, yet everyone can see that these business owners and professionals (like medical doctors) own big houses, expensive cars and live a lifestyle of someone making much more income. These strikes are precipitated due to the European Union refusing to loan Greece more money until they clean the corruption but the people think if the EU loans the money it will go to the rich, as usual.

According to Peter, a German business owner (importing beer from Germany to Greece) who has lived in Greece for 5 years, the Greeks are very self focused and always protesting to get more for themselves – e.g., local problems like the current situation are always someone else’s fault. A Lufthansa staff member agreed with this opinion, although we certainly met many Greeks who were quite loving and other-oriented.

Peter also mentioned that a typical small business takes 2 months to start in Greece unless you pay black marketing money to the government (small envelopes of 100 Euro to various officials). About the EU Peter also told a story of how he needed an emergency medical operation and the Greek doctor charged him 7,500 euros that would cost 2,500 in Germany. When he put the claim into his German insurance company they told him “next time we’ll send you a plane and fly you to Germany for the procedure.” Normally when someone sees a doctor they pay a fixed low price, for which the patient receives a receipt, and then a fat envelope with black market cash. Peter did not have to do this because the Greeks know Germans are not as corrupt and are not sure how to cope with them.

He also commented on the European Union and mentioned that alcohol, medicine and coffee are still taxed / exempt from EU tariff-free status, and that no country can be evicted from the EU – they must withdraw on their own. The EU is stuck with Greece. But the EU is a good thing that joins countries and helps compete against Asia and America, however, it is suffering the growing pains of any young collaboration.

As I was taking the airport photo, a Greek woman asked me kindly: "please respect the strike."
Poor Greece is in a financial mess and there are opinions that range from "they need to clean up the corruption" to "they need to declare bankruptcy" and "it is all the government's fault." Sad situation.

Delos - spiritual center of Greece

2011-06-29T15:35:00.001-07:00

We took a 40 minute ferry from Mykonos to the island of Delos, which was inhabited by 30,000 people as early as 500 b.c. It is the second largest archeological site in the world (on an island 6 km by 1 km) and is known as the birthplace of Apollo (Greek god of light/sun) and his twin sister, Artemis (Goddess of animals and fertility) - reportedly born in 900 b.c. Delos is seen as the spiritual center of Greece and is a fascinating place to visit. It is desert, just like Nevada, yet the underground water sustained the large popluation. One of the most interesting features is that, although the ruins are only 25% excavated, the houses, workshops, and retail establishments are well preserved, unlike many sites where only the key buildings remain.

Animals of Mykonos Town

2011-06-26T13:06:00.001-07:00

There are lots of ferel cats in this town and they are so cuddly and cute, but it is sad that they live on table scraps, as do the cats of Istanbul. Mykonos town is known for its mascot, the Pelican. Pedro first showed up in the 1950's and subsequently was killed in an automobile accident. Now there are 2 pelicans, both named Pedro, and they hang out in the cafes and streets. They allow tourists to touch them (as I am in the picture) and love to model for the camera - I know this because wherever they are a mob of paparazzi tourists surrounds the unmoving, seemingly careless and happy bird :-). Here is Pedro grooming his wing. We were told that one person who works in the Mayor's office is the official pelican caretaker ... everyone loves the birds.

Mykonos Town

2011-06-26T12:55:00.000-07:00

OMG, this island exceeds all my expectations! The town is interesting, beautiful and charming. The harbor is full of boats and there are windmills and winding streets full of shops with very creative merchandise - such as handmade jewelry made by local artist displayed in very unusual ways. One woman told us she visits India once a year to buy fabric then has a seamstress make dresses patterned after expensive beachwear in Dubai and other countries. The town is very sleepy during the 1-7 pm siesta time but gets really lively at night. It is a party town. Pictured here are the windmills, harbor, windy streets, and a church in Mykonos town.

First stop --- the beach!

2011-06-26T12:14:00.000-07:00

Here we are, lazing on the beach in Ornos Bay on Mykonos, Greece. The beach is set up with lounge chairs and beds (pictured) that we rent for 12 Euros a day (including a big bottle of water). The view is sublime, the weather warm, dry and windy, the water inviting and warm and the people beautiful. All around are conversations in many different languages. There are occasional topless sunbathers. This is me having a foot massage on the beach. What wonderful decadent behavior on my part! I rationalize that my feet deserve this treatment after all the walking and travelling of the past 6 weeks.

Hello Mykonos!

2011-06-23T09:23:00.001-07:00

Greek Islands, here we come! This is a view from our hotel, where we will stay for 5 days. Heaven on earth...

BTW, I asked why Greek buildings are mostly all white - both on the islands and in Athens, and I heard that the government offered money to subsidize the use of color but no one wanted to do it. Is is national pride or the relative ease of whitewashing versus painting? Either way it is simply beautiful...and interesting that the flag is blue and white, just like the landscape.

goodbye Athens

2011-06-23T09:13:00.000-07:00

We're off to Mykonos! Time to slow down the pace and work hard at holding down the lounge chairs by the pool overlooking a beach. Here is a sunset on the tip of a peninsula south of Athens...a magical spot where Posiden's temple is located. I was escorted there by Nicolas - a wonderful Greek gong master.

Protests in Athens

2011-06-23T08:52:00.000-07:00

We got lucky and happened upon a peaceful protest in front of the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. This was one in a long series, many not so peaceful (with arrests and injury), all about trying to unseat the current government. The country is in financial trouble and has already been bailed out by the European Union but is in danger of losing its ability for another loan unless the government changes its policies. Greece's financial rating has dropped from B to CCC (Standard and Poor) and there have been strikes among hospital and transportation workers. According to one local source, the people feel that the government has used the EU bail out and other funds improperly and they want change because there is high unemployment and many problems in the country. It is not getting better and there is likely no more money forthcoming from the EU. In these pictures you see a fish, with the head of Prime Minister George Papandreou, eating an artist. This protest is all about how the policies/actions of the government are killing the arts. A shame because Greece was the birthplace of art.

The man we spoke to thinks that Greece is in danger of developing into an Egypt-type scenario, with escalating trouble. Sad.

Name that Pillar

2011-06-23T08:37:00.000-07:00

Ionian, Doric, Corinthian...we saw the pillar rock stars but couldn't remember which was which. See if you remember...also are some pillars made in the image of women. Fantastic foundations of the world's architecture.

Athens National Archaeological Museum

2011-06-23T08:25:00.001-07:00

What an amazing structure! It contains incredibly old and wonderful items found in the Acropolis area. Two other remarkable things are first, that one floor is built like the Parthenon, with 17 steel pillars on each side of space and behind them are pieces of carved marble that was in the same position above the pillars of the Parthenon. Some are replicas because the real pieces are in the British Museum. We weren't allowed to take pictures inside but here are some online. The other amazing thing is that the museum is built on old ruins and visitors enter the grounds by walking on transparent plastic sheets that reveal ruins below. Here you see pictures of both the clear walkway and an archeologist I found who is working on the ruins below the floor.

Athens...our roots

2011-06-23T08:08:00.000-07:00

Being here is like walking into a history book. We went straight to the Acropolis - a huge site with many important ruins. WOW. Here is the Parthenon, up on the top of the rock wall and again up close. the cranes are there because they are fixing an earlier renovation. Amazing that these structures stand after earthquakes, wars, and the fighting Greek gods! Seeing this brought thoughts of the trial of Socrates, which happened here (defended by Aristotle), and all the legends of Greek mythology such as the struggle between the goddess Athena and Posiden. The other structure pictured here is the famous Greek theater of Dionysis. It is renovated and currently used for events. Beyond it is Athens..."Athina" as called by the Greeks and named after the Goddess Athena. I really loved that I saw Jews, Muslims, and Christians all here admiring the ruins of a society that believed in polytheism.

Eating in Athens

2011-06-23T07:57:00.000-07:00

The first thing we did in Athens is eat. We wondered...is the Greek salad the same here as in the US? Answer: yes and no - same ingredients but the tomatoes and feta cheese are out of this world delicious! the little birds agreed -- scampering to get the bread left on trays by the waiters, and pictured here right on our own table. So cute. We also had some great white broad beans (yipeeee - protein for the vegetarian), and fried feta cheese. I also had an amazing Cretan salad, made with a large barley cake topped with feta, tomatoes and olive oil (pictured here with Malia and me - picture taken by Nicholas). yum.

Goodbye Istanbul! With love...

2011-06-23T07:46:00.000-07:00

What an amazing city. I'll definitely be back and also visit the interior of Turkey. On the last day we went to the "new" section of the city - still in Europe but the Asian side easily viewed across the water (see image looking at Asia). We also took a little walk on the main drag in the new part of town, starting in Taksim -- well, starting with a tram ride then the funicular (drawn on rails by a cable up a steep hill). See the crowds that walk this shopping street, filled with tons of US store brands from Burger King to the Gap. In the old town we saw this guy selling pidgeon feed -- made us break out in song..."feed the birds, tuppence a bag..."

Off to Athens!

Istanbul's Grand Bazaar

2011-06-23T07:26:00.000-07:00

Ok, shopaholics...4000 stalls of everything from Turkish sweets to carpets. It is overwhelming. The Kapali Carsi is one of the world's oldest and largest covered bazaars, attracting nearly half a million people a day. Opening in 1471, it is a place for Westerners to learn bargaining skills. I bought a carpet from the man pictured here. We had tea, showed me many carpets, and finally when I liked one he said: "800 Euros" - for a 3' by 5' silk turkish carpet. gulp... with daughter Malia's help we got that down to 200 Euros and probably could have negotiated less. The bazaar was lively, interesting, and exhausting. And i came away with some really unique treasures.

New contest...enter to win!

2011-06-21T04:30:00.001-07:00

Just arrived in Athens, a bit travel weary as usual. For giggles on the plane I made a list of all the travelling I've done since arriving in Europe on May 14. Want to win a Turkish "evil eye" charm for protection? Guess how many of the following I'll have accomplished by the time I leave to return to Reno on June 29 (46 days):
1) how many train rides (from point A to B, not including transfers)
2) how many flights (again, not including plane changes en route)
3) how many different beds have I slept in, including at daughter Malia's house?

Bonus question: how much money have I spent on all this in Hungarian Forint, Turkish Lira, Polish Zloty and European Union Euros? Please tell me because I have NO clue what the answer is :-).

Fantastic Mosques and other Religious buildings

2011-06-21T04:01:00.000-07:00

These are pictures of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque (interior pics). Sophia was built in 360 A.D. "From the date of its dedication in 360 until 1453, it served as the Greek Patriarchal cathedral of Constantinople, except between 1204 and 1261, when it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral under the Latin Patriarch of Constantinople of the Western Crusader established Latin Empire. The building was a mosque from 29 May 1453 until 1931, when it was secularized. It was opened as a museum on 1 February 1935," according to Wikipedia.

The famous Blue Mosque was built by Sultan Ahmed in the early 16oo's. It is beautiful. The towers you see in both pictures are the minarets where the call to prayer broadcasts from speakers near the top.

Finally, here I am in the "little Sophia" mosque (with required head scarf and legs/shoulders covered). You can see the lovely carpeted area where Muslims pray.

People of Istanbul

2011-06-21T03:34:00.000-07:00

These are ice cream vendors in traditional Turkish costume. This is a picture of Malia and me, looking into a glass enclosed exibit in the palace "harem" rooms.

It is intersting to see the muslim women decked out in their black clothing in the hot and humid weather. The modern version has young women in jeans and t-shirts with a hip head scarf and sandels. We also heard the Islamic call to prayer, which happens 5 times a day. People sing/play recordings from the minarets (towers) all over the city. See this Youtube video as an example of what we heard at the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. But we didn't see people stop work and get on the ground facing Mecca to pray, as happens all over Egypt. A hotel manager told us the Muslims are more liberal in Istanbul. In general, the Turks in Istanbul were rather rude, pushing their way past in a crowd and not uttering any polite "sorry" or "excuse me" words. They do not make eye contact and are not friendly to strangers as in other countries - except for the tourism workers, who are extremely nice and helpful. I actually gave two waiters a brief Reiki energy hit/Oneness Blessing and they enjoyed it.

Incredible Istanbul

2011-06-20T21:56:00.000-07:00

Istanbul is awesome...the old part of town has a castle, occupied by Sultans in the Ottoman Empire ...the Sultan's bed is in the "harem" which housed the women and eunichs to guard them. We also saw incredible Mosques and Christian hang outs and street vendors, like this one making candy - hot sugary stuff in different flavors...he twirls on a stick. More later - great hotel but slow internet connection.

Wroclaw street scenes

2011-06-17T07:47:00.000-07:00

These are scenes on the old town square in Wroclaw. It is bustling with artists, woodcarvers, and venders selling everything from linens to amber (pictured). I guess you can tell what I was up to - didn't photograph the old buildings today but did shoot the street sellers :-).

Wroclaw, City of Gnomes

2011-06-17T07:37:00.001-07:00

Wroclaw, Poland is pronounced "Vrats-love." It is a charming city with a river, lots of beautiful churches, and over 70 small metal gnomes in strange and unpredictable places. Pictured here they are in the old town square, at the post office above a mailbox, and at the steps of a huge church. According to the Lonely Planet guide, they were an initiative of the Orange Alternative, "a communist-era dissident group that used ridicule as a weapon." They placed gnomes where graffiti has been removed by the authorities and no one could arrest someone for owning and placing gnomes. There is no guide to their whereabouts -you just come upon them as a reward for the attentive tourist.

Viszlát to Hungary

2011-06-11T15:10:00.000-07:00

Goodbye, Hungary. What a lovely and interesting country - I will return some day to dig more deeply into the beauty and culture that has really captured my heart. Even the manhole covers in the street are charming.

Next time I'll work harder on learning how to manage the Forint (currency) and public transportation. I won't make any promises about the language - it is very different from the romance and slavic languages that have some familiarity to me. Goodbye with love!

Cruising the Danube

2011-06-11T15:03:00.001-07:00

Here are some pictures from my one hour trip on the Danube at sunset. The building is the famous Parliament government building. Amazing architecture. The one sunset pictures with a statue at the top of the hill is of a woman holding an olive branch. It was built after a war when the leaders wanted peace to prevail.

Street Fun

2011-06-11T14:50:00.000-07:00

Today I took the public transportation from Buda (the hilly side of Danube) to Pest (the plain side where 2/3 of the population lives). My goal: a boat trip in the Danube (which is no longer "blue," BTW). On the way I met Mick, a guy from the sovereign state of Georgia (between Russia and Turkey), who is a real free spirit. He makes beautiful necklaces from small flat stones with spiritual symbols on them, such as OM and spirals and yin/yang. We spoke for 2 hours about the meaning of life and how to be free and it was fabulous. He floats from country to country selling his art in the street and says the biggest joy is the people he meets. We toned our voices together and just had a great time. In the picture, Mick is on the right and we are joined by one of 4 men from UK who came along and were really funny and lively (and a bit tipsy).

Another cool street thing - Hungarian chilis on a string and dried red sweet bell peppers - the latter is what Hungarian Paprika is made from - and comes in sweet or spicy varieties.

An Insider's Perspective

2011-06-11T14:32:00.000-07:00

I had a long chat today with a woman who gave her insights about the cultural implications of political changes in Hungary. She said that under communist rule, prior to 1989, people were not free to travel or do many other things, however, because no one could work to gain more wealth than others, everyone was equal. There were no jealousies and everyone was friendly and trusting with all others: good neighbors. Also there was no crime at all and the arts flourished (I've heard this from a Pole as well). Since 1989 crime has increased tremendously and people are not as neighborly as capitalism has set them climbing over each other to gain more wealth.

Now, about the European Union, which Hungary joined in 2004. She said that "globalization" has been a disaster for Hungary because, first, produce and other household goods come from other countries now and the local farmers can't compete on price so are not surviving well. She actually won't shope for groceries at the local store and pay more and feels badly about it (sound familiar ..."Buy American"). Also, many of the medical doctors have gone to "Western" countries like Germany to work for higher wages. It is impossible to have an elective surgery in Hungary without waiting at least 6 months because the remaining (and largely less competent she said) doctors are busy with emergency surgeries. This is why Hungary, along with Spain, Greece, Iceland, and other EU countries have recently been bailed out financially more than once by other stronger EU countries...but that is now stopping - thus the huge protests in Greece. Some predict that the EU will be disbanded within 10 years.

When I spoke with Germans about this 5 years ago they were worried about "cheap" labor coming from the lesser developed countries, like Hungary, and taking their jobs. It will be interesting to see what happens and whether or not the EU is self righting, as happened in the US somewhat after we lost Detroit to Japanese car makers and had cheap labor immigrants take the jobs Americans were afraid of losing but in the end didn't want to do (like migrant farm workers or hotel housekeeping).

Update - I got a different perspective from a taxi driver and a student I met on the train. They said that the country is improving due to EU membership, partly because of a new metro system and tram system that are planned. The other EU countries want to upgrade transportation in all EU countries for easier travel. These guys also thought the economic problems were mostly caused by the recession of past few years and that now Hungary is seeing economic growth again, largely due to tourism. I did my part! Spent more that a few Forint in the country :-)

I heard a few similar comments while in Slovenia - the inflation is huge since the adoption of the Euro. I'll learn more when we head to Greece in a week...

Fiddler on the Roof

2011-06-10T15:15:00.000-07:00

Here is a fiddler playing in a castle restaurant with killer view over the Danube. Wow, I feel so blessed to be in Budapest.

Castles, castles, and more castles

2011-06-10T14:53:00.000-07:00

Europe is known for its castles, and Budapest has a fair share of them. I walked through the castle district today and took some pics. The entire district was definitely breathtaking. Here are some images from my morning adventure.

Budapest Rocks!

2011-06-10T14:25:00.001-07:00

This city is awesome! The buildings are beautiful, ranging from old Europe to Art Deco and more. The city is divided into two sections: Buda (the hills) and Pest (the plains), divided by the lovely Danube River. There are so many things you'd expect in a great city: history, art, music, parks, a zoo, and what you wouldn't expect...lots of thermal baths (hope to visit one tomorrow). These are some pictures of the buildings (in order, the Synagogue in the old Jewish area that was a getto during the war, the Museum of Terror marking atrocities during the war and communist times, the famous Opera House, the Monument to Heroes, the Art Museum and shop)...some I took while on a roofless city sightseeing bus called "hop on, hop off" because you buy a 24 hour ticket and can get off to see a museum or whatever and then catch the next one. A great lazy way to get an overview. Tomorrow I'll take the companion 1 hour Danube Cruise. The pic of the Heroes is a monument celebrating the Magyar tribes that founded Hungary, along with Angel Gabriel watching over them. What an awesome place!

First Impressions of Budapest

2011-06-10T01:54:00.000-07:00

I'm here! First impression from the train station was - oh, here are the communist style grey cement square huge apartment buildings, mixed in with the fantastic old castles and charming Central Europe architecture. I had a difficult time finding a taxi because the signs in train station thoughtfully had a drawing of a taxi but pointed all different directions. Then the money...still confusing...hmmm.. at the ATM machine and should I opt for 10,000, 50,000, or 70,000 Forint? Good thing I brought that calculator watch. It won't help me with the piles of heavy coins though - I have no idea what 10 Forint gets me :-). I tried to hand it to someone for a bottle of water that cost 510 Forint and she waved the 10 coin away as worthless.
It is a huge city and hardly anyone speaks English (except hotel/tourism workers). I feel as a foreigner who might have landed in New York City: overwhelmed with amazing sites and don't know where to begin or how to navigate the public transportation system yet. Sure, there are books about the best things to do but there are so many delights - how to choose? So, today I'm going to walk to the castle district and poke around, especially keen to find the underground Labyrinth, then get on a "hop on hop off" bus that gives me 24 hours of driving around to all the main WOW sites and you can get off, stay as long as you like, hop on the next one (they come every 30 minutes). Includes a trip on the Danube. I'm sold. will report back on this adventure (in the light rain I might add).

PS. excuse any typos - in every country I visit, the blogger.com instructions are in the native language shown by my IP address and spell check marks 90% of the words as wrong because it is checking now in Hungarian. Still, it is interesting to see what words English and Hungarian/German/Slovenian have in common! Forint...New York City...I...hotel :-)

Lotus Therme Hotel and Fantastic Treatment

2011-06-08T12:09:00.000-07:00

I'm staying at a wonderful spa hotel (see pic of pool that is thermal water). I had fun floating around the circle and then swimming inside through the straight bit to the left. Inside are several large thermal pools of varying temperatures, some with jets. The grounds are beautiful with a variety of birds and trees. You can also see the path to Lake Heviz...about a 500 kilometer walk.

But the real reason I'm writing is not because the hotel paid me to post this :-) but because of the amazing treatment I got in their spa. It is a sound, sight, and touch experience called an AlphaSphere (see site and click on British flag at bottom to get English). It is a plastic chair that rocks a bit in a room with blue light that looks kind of like being under the sea. You close your eyes and some eerie underwater music plays and lots of unusual tones over a 30 minutes period. Occasionally the chair vibrates slightly and for just a few seconds under your legs or elsewhere. It was extrememly relaxing and definitely helps reduce stress. It has won awards...I want one to share with YOU! Only 20,000 Euros :-). Add it to the list, behind the 80 inch Paiste Gong...

Lake Heviz, Hungary

2011-06-08T11:32:00.000-07:00

Lake Heviz is the largest thermal lake in Europe, and by some accounts, the entire world. It is 47,500 square meters in area, 38 meters deep (wow!), and the water coming up from the source reportedly replenishes the entire lake each day. It is about 33 degrees Celsius (91.4 F) year round and a 4 hour admission is 2400 Hungarian Forint (which really had me guessing because they told me 1 Euro is 240 HUF, so it was a double calculation...until I looked it up just now ($1 = 182 HUF). Ok, go ahead and divide that in your head math wiz:-).

The thermal water is known for its medicinal properties. Lots of good bacteria, green algae, and other really healthy stuff...well, except for the radioactive material also present (see Wikipedia). all the dots you see in the picture are people's heads. Lots of tourists come from all over Europe to be cured (and even the US....ME!).

They have a really cool system - you get a watch-like bracelet when you pay the entry fee and place it on the turnstyle to unlock it. Then upon entering the locker room you scan it on a reader and up pops a number (in my case 2008) - this is your locker and the scan unlocks it each time. The bracelet is obviously waterproof too.

This is the ditch that outflows water from Lake Heviz and people who swim in it get to save the Forints...but check out the no swimming sign (for 100 meters) so I wonder what the price is for this free dip!

Enter this contest and win BIG...

2011-06-06T10:39:00.000-07:00

I just took a 7 hour, slow, local train from Ljubljana, Slovenia to Keszthely, Hungary. It was exciting to watch the countryside change, along with the faces on the train. The time went quickly as the train sometimes stopped every 10 minutes at tiny train stations with names I couldn't pronounce.

Now for the contest: What country is this train station in? I had no idea when I crossed the border (thanks to the European Union). First right answer as a comment on this blogs wins....drum roll....some Hungarian Paprika!

*contest expires 10 June 2011 at 24:00 (this is me learning how to do Europe-speak).

Slovenia is Awesome

2011-06-05T11:18:00.000-07:00

These are all pictures of the Center of Ljubjlana - the capital. A river runs through it and cafes dot the streets.

Who woulda figured that Slovenia was such an amazing country? It has old world charm, with great buildings not damaged by war, the Julian Alps in the north (they call Slovenia the "sunny side of the Alps"), sea coast in the south - where you can hop a boat to Venice, Italy, and 57% forrest in the middle. There are 2 million people and I think you can easily drive across the whole country in less than a day. I is modern with great fashion...things changed after it joined the EU in 2004. And the people are multilingual and very friendly. I love it here!

On the Street in Ljubljana, Slovenia

2011-06-05T10:55:00.000-07:00

Ljubljana (after several days here I can finally spell it without looking it up), Slovenia is alive with exciting activity. This is a dancer, Burning Man style.

More from the Paiste Factory

2011-06-04T13:12:00.000-07:00

Here I am at the Paiste Factory in Schacht Audorf Germany. So thrilled to be able to play this 80 inch gong that is in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest handmade gong in the world. (view with Windows Media Player)

Beach in Eckernförde, Germany

2011-06-04T13:03:00.000-07:00

ooops...forgot to post pictures of the beach I visited in Northern Germany. It was wonderful to lie in the sun and stick my toes in the Baltic Sea!

The Vegetarian Hunter Gets Arrows

2011-06-02T11:18:00.000-07:00

It is not easy to be a vegetarian trying to avoid gluten in Europe. Or most any country except Thailand and Costa Rica. Mostly all I can find as vegetarian entrees are cheese and bread/noodles/potatoes. I've been living on nuts, energy bars and protein powder with an occasional yogurt and eggs (and thanks to my sister Janet, I brought a bunch of Soy sticks). I was so thrilled to find a little restauant in Kiel that had white beans and salad. As I ate the wonderful salad my neighbors at the next table said "Germany is warning everyone: don't eat raw vegetables!!!" There is an outbreak of a new strain of E.coli that has infected over 1000 and killed 18 people in Europe, most of them in Northern Germany.

So here I am in Slovenia now and was so happy to find a health food store and a vegan fast food stand. So got some tofu (gold) and then found a salad with pine nuts (diamonds!). But I feel like a hunter each time I go out looking - of course all the menus are in other languages so that makes it harder. I think this is south enough not to worry about the salad I ate today. And it has been a few days since eating in Northern Germany and I feel terrific...

Tomorrow the hunter rises again...searching for protein in Europe. Don't think I'll visit the "Horse House" restaurant in Ljubljana, Slovenia...they serve horse meat sandwiches.
If I could just lay off the chocolate I'd lose a few pounds on this trip :-).

The Kindness of Strangers

2011-06-02T11:06:00.000-07:00

Today I learned that when you rent a car you should get the address of where to return it (how many times do I have to learn that lesson :-)! I drove around Kiel looking for the train station and my new best friend, the GPS lady, was no help at all. In fact, she became a nag...repeatedly telling me to "please make a U-Turn" when I spontaneiously changed direction to see a fabuous church the day before. Oh well. Anyhow, I was about 15 minutes off track when I stopped into a grocery story and asked a group of people for help. One nice guy came to my car and entered the train station address for me! Then when I got there with minutes to spare I left the rental car in a handicapped spot and bounded upstairs to tell the car rental people and he said, "No problem - just hand me the key and go catch your train."

People are so helpful and nice - and do it in English. I'm grateful.

I had a lovely day driving to Schleswig to see the fjord and fabulous church, then a lovely drive along the Baltic coast and then hung out in the sun at Eckernforde Beach. Then on the train for 1 hour to Hamburg, and on a plane to Slovenia!

Paiste Factory near Kiel, Germany!!!

2011-05-31T12:24:00.000-07:00

This is the crew of artists who make the gongs - standing with me in front of an 80 inch beauty. It is a very labor-intensive process. First, they take the round plain piece of nickel-silver metal alloy (stacked in the shelves), then they burn the edges as shown with the two disks against the wall. That is the easy part. Next is all the hammering by hand to get the tuning that sounds great or matches the fundamental note for the planetary gongs. Then they warm it up for a few hours in an oven. Finally, they check the tuning with tuning forks and equipment that measures the tones. If it is not right...back to hammering.

I was really moved by their dedication and skill. They were also so friendly and took a lot of time to show me around. Then I got to play ALL the gongs, including some 60 inch beauties. What a wonderful day. I was there from 10:00 a.m. until 3:30 p.m., and at the end thanked them by giving them a 20 minute gong bath. Unbelievably they'd never experienced this and left feeling quite relaxed. Wow, what a great adventure at Paiste. I'll never play a gong again without feeling great respect for these men who hammer away all day with great skill to bring us these glorious instruments.

My New Best Friend

2011-05-30T13:13:00.000-07:00

As i rolled into the Kiel train station I pondered: rent a car for an arm and a leg (100 Euro a day), get a taxi to the hotel (50 Euro) or wait a few hours for the train that would get me closer but still take taxis around to the Paiste factory and more. I want to visit both the Baltic and North Sea, too, and what a hassle to figure out about busses and trains and such. So, I got the car. A Mini! with no key, just like Malia's car - you just stick a fob in a slot and press a start button. A 6 speed manual (been a few years, but no problem). Problem: how do i get where I'm going? Answer - my new best friend, the GPS lady!! I had to get the car rental person to teach me how to start the car and use the GPS. Then, what a trip speeding along the country roads and freeways not knowing where I was going and getting used to a new car, shifting all the way (after 6 hours of train riding to get here). But now I've arrived, learned new technology, feel cool, and it was fun. And now I can go to the beaches with my new best friend! She smilingly says..."Prepare to turn right in 250 meters..." huh? how far is that?

2011-05-30T12:28:00.000-07:00

There is the fast ICE that is wonderful and smooth. The “DB” stands for Deutch Bahn (= German train, which is the name of the train company). The glass building is the Berlin HBF. How do people travel to the station with with suitcases on bikes?
And the slow regional RE trains that stop at every one horse town. They often give you a connection schedule that allows only 10 minutes and the famous on time German trains don’t always live up to their reputation. Twice now I’ve been 5 minutes late arriving at a station and literally ran to catch the connection – one time hopping on 30 seconds before they closed the door. No biggie. I made it and it was exciting! On the train to Malia’s I wasn’t sure when to get off so I asked someone sitting next to me what the stops were between Nuremburg and Vilsek. She wrote them on my ticket and I had her sign it as author: Lily! She drew a heart around her name. Fun to talk to people on trains. Nice to relax on trains and I’m on one now as I write this on my computer.
Which, BTW, I’m on the train from Hamburg to Kiel in the north and if you look at the sign it leaves at 13:20 but we are still in the station (see the clock)! And below the sign? People running who are undoubtedly happy that the train is leaving late!
They were probably at one of the numerous bakeries in every train station. Too bad I don’t eat gluten.

Leyla and Sasha in Berllin

2011-05-30T12:23:00.001-07:00

Here I am with the charming and beautiful Leyla.After our tour Leyla and the smart and successful handsome Sasha take me to a wonderful dinner at an Indian/Thai/Chinese restaurant and then for drinks on a cool dock on a lake. We make a pledge to meet in Mexico in the future. It was fun walking down the street holding hands with Leyla, just like school girls.

Historical buildings in Berlin

2011-05-30T12:06:00.000-07:00

There are pictures of the current German Parliament building (with painter), an art museum, and more beautiful buildings that I have no clue about.

This is Checkpoint Charlie (white small building)- the American military ran it while the wall was up and it remains as a tourist attaction - next to the Einstein Coffee House.

This is the Holocaust memorial in Berlin (grey slab picture). Underground is a list of the millions of Jews and others who were killed by name (see more at Wikipedia).

Berlin with our two Russian/ German,/Brazilian Friends!!

2011-05-30T11:58:00.000-07:00

Never was attracted to this city but WOW, what amazing architecture and the history, of course. I meet Leyla and Sasha at the train station and they take me on a wonderful tour of both East and West Berlin. The centerpiece, of course, is THE Wall. They’ve left a bit of it up for historical reasons and allowed street artists to decorate it. It is not as tall as I imagined, but it formerly had coiled wire on the top to deter climbers. I’m standing on the Eastern side and immediately on the other side is a murky river. I guess if one was successful scaling the wall the water pollution would kill him/her. The painting of two men kissing includes Russia’s Brazhnikov.

Living in Mannheim, Germany

2011-05-30T11:37:00.001-07:00

Kathrin arranges for me to live in a nice apartment in Mannheim – see the view as I step out my door. Also note that the cars all park halfway on the sidewalk. Across the street is the University of Mannheim, which is located in an old castle (Schloss in German – one of the few words I know, embarrassingly).

My routine is to walk a couple of blocks to the tram and then take it for 15 minutes to the neighboring Ludwigshaven, then walk about ¾ mile to the institute for teaching (and return the same way). I love all the walking in Europe. It feels so healthy and it is wonderful to have so much local cheap transportation. This is my ride: tram #4.
Of course nothing is too cheap right now with the exchange rate of $1.43 to 1 €. Still, that doesn’t stop me from shopping, once anyhow, in Mannheim - this is the normally lively square (Parade Platz, pronounced pah-rad-ah plahtz) surrounded by yummy European fashion and cafes. I note that the style for women includes scarves – so I followed suit and it exaggerates the heat on warm days.
They are setting up for a huge street fair this weekend. It will have lots of food (pretzels, sausages, pizza) and music and cool homemade and other stuff for sale. Germany has street fairs every weekend somewhere. The Christmas fair and fall fairs are especially huge…and of course, the famous Octoberfest.

Took off to see Malia and Marco the weekend I had off between teaching days. A 4.5 hour train ride and 200% worth it! They live in Vilsek in the Bavarian regio , 2 hours from Prague. That sounds exotic as I see it roll off my fingers!
Tomorrow – train to Berlin to meet Lelya and Sasha! These are Russians who live 9 months of the year in Berlin and 3 months in Moscow. Cyndi and I met them in Rio de Janeiro in January and immediately fell in love. They are wonderful and fun.

Teaching in Ludwigshafen, Germany

2011-05-30T11:31:00.000-07:00

I love my students in the BIP program in Germany. They are bright, motivated, charming, professional and energetic. I also really enjoy my hosts, Kathrin and Gerhard – we enjoy meals and wonderful conversation every time I visit (think I started these annual trips, which are now twice a year, in about 2004).

I tried to find some paper cups for doing a taste test in class but could not find any at the local stores. I know they exist but I couldn’t find one on my hunting trip. Germany is excellent at recycling and I rarely see a paper cup for anything, even in restaurants. We have to separate our garbage by paper, plastic, and refuse/other. There are no trash landfills in Germany.
This year I taught brand management and this is the view of an old water tower from my classroom. One day we heard a lot of cheering outside and discovered that the winner of the German Idol competition was at the radio station in the same building. A crowd amassed to catch a glimpse of the star as we tried to stay focused on class.

Wrapping it Up

2011-01-17T13:43:00.001-08:00

Here we have the Cuidad de Samba, where they are building floats and costumes for Carnival 2011! You can see the prototypes in miniature and then a costume. The floats are gigantic.

Buildings of Rio Centro. The one with the gold is inside a beautiful church. The downtown is an interesting mixure of old, colonial buildings, and new structures, with Dallas Texas style fully glass exteriors.

I post these sitting at home after 24 hours of travel -- 14 hours in the air. It was a great trip, but not entirely as expected. Rio is a modern city and it is easy to see why Brazil is expected to be a fully industrialized nation soon.

Over and out from the weary travellers, Cyndi and Judy.

Street Scenes

2011-01-17T13:31:00.000-08:00

Last day in Rio...we spent much of the past few days with our fabulous two new Russian friends, Sasha and Leyla (who live in Berlin and Moscow both).

We came across this wonderful woman, dressed in carnival attire (on the trolley). She was starring in a music video for a band from Estonia.

Saucy Samba

2011-01-17T13:06:00.000-08:00

Saucy Samba! Here it is in the Manguiera Samba School and on the street in Santa Teresa.

Rio Favelas

2011-01-10T16:02:00.000-08:00

We booked a tour to the Rio favelas for Monday. We almost missed it because, well, we are now in such vacation mode that we thought it was Sunday today :-). We were on the beach, and I came back to the hotel briefly only to be told the tour guide was waiting for us (5 minutes after the tour was to begin). Oooops. So I ran to the beach to get Cyndi and we went on the tour in bathing suits / cover ups - no biggie because the bikini is standard attire in Rio!

What an interesting tour. There are over 500 favelas in Rio. These are densely populated villages of many multi-story buildings sharing common walls. We went to Rochina Favela, where about 95,000 very low income people live in 1 square kilometer of space. Our tour guide told us that three drug gangs run several of the favelas. If a resident steals something they cut his/her hand off, and on second offense kill the criminal.

The Brazilian government has worked to drive out the drug lords and clean up the favelas.
Brazil is a "big emerging country," one of four - (BRIC --Brazil, Russia, India, China), and the guide explained that this income and social division between the favela dwellers (20% of the Rio population) and rest of Rio is the only thing stopping Brazil from becoming a fully industrialized nation. With its winning bids for both the upcoming Olympicas and the FIFA World Cup and its desire to move foward in the world economy, the government is working hard to clean out the drug component and improve the favela infrastructures.
In our tour we saw some evidence of progress - better services, such as trash removal/internet connectivity and better education for the residents.
Of note, the guide said that the USA is the biggest customer for Brazil's drugs (that come from Bolivia, Chile, and Colombia). How can we in the US be critical of drug providing nations when we are the biggest customer and can't even control our own consumption of illegal substances? This is an interesting problem.

This was a fascinating tour and we felt welcomed by the favela residents - except that we weren't allowed to take photos in the favela run by drug lords. We saw no machine guns and saw lots of children on computers in a school and some public service projects to improve living conditions.

Santa Theresa

2011-01-10T15:44:00.001-08:00

Lovely Santa Theresa - a hilly town near downtown Rio. We first braved the Metro (efficient underground public transportation) and then took a cable car to get up the hill to Santa Theresa (only R$ 0.60). We saw street performers, crafts, and lovely houses and fauna. We also saw some great art from recycled materials - a theme throughout Rio.

Samba School

2011-01-10T15:22:00.000-08:00

What a trip! We met Fabio on the beach (the handsome man pictured with Cyndi) - he is a very happy "starving" artist living in a Rio favela. He offers to take us to a Samba party in deep Rio. It is the Manguiera Favala Samba School, and they are practicing on Saturday night in a huge warehouse for the upcoming Rio Carnival. How lucky to be invited by a local to this exciting event. It is kind of scary to arrive in this poor area of town but it is so lively and we trust Fabio - thousands of people packed in the streets with makeshift bars and the same number inside the warehouse. The party started at midnight and went until 4 a.m.... but one of us could only last until about 2:30 a.m. :-). Wild, fun, real Rio.

Beach Scenes

2011-01-10T15:04:00.000-08:00

The sun is warm and beautiful and doesn't set until about 9 p.m. What more could a traveller from cold Reno want? OK, how about beach service from the wonderful Windsor Excesior hotel that includes a beach boy to set up chairs, towels and an umbrella? NICE. We feel like royalty here.

Saturday at Copacabana Beach in Rio. The multitudes arrive to escape the heat and humidity by playing in the surf. What a lively and wonderful scene, with the famous Sugar Loaf mountain in the background. I thought the crowded beach scene and "umbrella city" would be difficult, but instead, the liveliness of these wonderful locals (and some tourists) brings great joy to our day. What an amazing place this is.

Brazilians are Beautiful

2011-01-10T14:56:00.000-08:00

Wow, the Brazilians are such happy, beautiful people. This makes us smile, too.

View from Cristo Statue

2011-01-10T14:53:00.000-08:00

Christ the Reedemer

2011-01-10T14:45:00.000-08:00

Today we visited the famous statue of "Cristo." What a breathtaking train ride to the top, followed by a spectacular view of Rio. The statue itself is 30 stories high and can be seen from all over Rio. Brazilians love their Cristo.

Rio Reveals itself

2011-01-07T07:18:00.000-08:00

Day 3...
We awake 10 minutes before the free breakfast ends (yummy and worth it)...only to discover later in the day that the hotel room clock was 2 hours fast! We've been getting up too early for days, wondering the whole time why they weren't clearing the buffet at 10 am, like we thought...
ahhh, tomorrow more sleep.

the sun comes out!!! fabulous afternoon working hard at holding down chairs on the beach...hotel "service" means a chair, towel, and umbrella that they lay out as you approach (great hotel!). Interesting scenes of people. We were mesmerized by the woman on the beach who was entirely beautiful and alluring at first glance and then on more scrutiny turned out to be a male transexual homeless prostitute (her belongings in a plastic bag serving as a pillow). These people don't wear much on the beach - stories of speedos and string bikinis are true. We keep noticing the beautiful variety in skin color and hair straight to curly.

There are many ethnic classifications from white to black, depending on skin color and hair straightness/curliness. Brazilians decended from Amerindians, Europeans, Africans and Asians. According to Wikipedia, Brazilians are classified as Aboriginal, Black, White, Asian, and Pardo:
"The Pardos are a mixture of Europeans, Blacks and Amerindians. Brazil does not have a category for multiracial people, but a Pardo (brown) one, which may include mixed race, mulattos, and assimilated indigenous people ("caboclos")."

According to us, the Brazilians are beautiful and friendly and their physical features truly reflect the international melting pot that is Brazil.

We need cash! Two banks do not accept our debit or credit cards and the search for a Cirrus network will continue tomorrow. But we are doing better at finding vegetarian options in this land of meat eaters.

At night we wander the lively beach street, full of vendors with very cool stuff from lights to wood carvings and things made of gems. Lots of artists and amazing sand sculptures on the beach. You can get a beer and walk with it. Now we have even less cash ....

We were so worried about Brazil's reputation for danger/petty crime, but we have felt really safe and comfortable so far. We are careful, but pleasantly surprised.

Lots of tour operators and two we befriended - one a Swiss guy who moved here a year ago "just for the adventure." fun people. fun time. no more melt downs. We have arrived!!!

and now that we feel safe, we'll take the cameras out and post more pics.

It is a New Day in Brazil

2011-01-07T07:17:00.000-08:00

January 5, 2011
Wow! What a great and needed sleep! Wake up at like 9:50 ..10 minutes before the free breakfast ends. Mom runs down to grab some food from the buffet and tells the staff she will take it to the room. Immediately a young man appears with a tray. She loads everything on it, and he carries it up to the room for us. We really love this hotel and Rio and Brazil today, and still sitting in the room in bed in our pajamas at 12:30, we believe we are now acculturating to the pulse of this place.

Still tired and still rainy but full of gusto for the adventure ahead. But first…turn turn off the computer and lock it in the room safe. We have been told by books and travellers that it is dangerous here, after all, although it is not our experience at all so far.

We had a great, long walk to the end of Copacabana Beach. All along there are funny work out stations with fun things to work the muscles. We tried a few and laughed with the locals as we fumbled (mostly mom). We had a full conversation using gestures with the cutest little inquisitive Braillian girl-child about Cyndi's hat and Mom's tattoos. At the end of all this we had our second treat of fresh coconut water. YUM.

Off to Ipanema Beach in search of food and drink! Crowded restaurants but we found an awesome Japanese eatery with wonderful hostess (Dina) who gave us tips on where to go for vegetarian food and good bars. We wandered the streets and found a hopping bar, but by then it was 11:45 pm and there was a R$ 30 cover for all you can drink until midnight, so we hung out outside and met the cutest young man who told us the best places to go for all you can drink bars ...

home, tired and to bed. We are slowly finding the real Rio and we love it. So cosmopolitan. It appeared at first to be very Westernized and lack interesting culture, but appearances are deceiving. The deeper we go the more fascinating it becomes. And we've not yet left the touristy beaches.

Cyndi had a Great Birthday (In Hindsight)

2011-01-07T06:58:00.000-08:00

View from our hotel on Copacabana Beach (left), Rio Scenarium (right)

Getting there (Jan 4th)
On the plane, we started noticing that we couldn’t tell who was Brazilian and who was American, nor could others detect our nationality. Wide array of skin color, hair type – a true melting pot. Language was the only distinguisher. We also discover at this point that Portuguese doesn’t sound similar enough to Spanish to be understandable.
When we changed our watches to Rio time, suddenly it changed from 7pm to 1am, thus beginning the birthday day. Cyndi got a 30 hour birthday!!
All in all the trip was easy, but long, with many birthday congratulations from airline staff, including a gift of a bottle of champagne on the last leg!

Arrival
Looked like Hawaii. Looked like many other Latin American countries – griminess, poverty. It was also very overcast and occasionally rainy.

Hotel on Copacabana beach. Changed rooms.. got upgraded. Charged for upgrade. Were informed later no charge for upgrade. Beautiful room. Total ocean view on the 9th floor.

Afternoon
Dead tired. Out to explore. Flagged local mini-van to Ipanema beach – only R$2. Same as Copacabana beach. Had coconut. Sliced in cool way to scoop out meat using piece of shell as spoon.

Feeling like nothing exciting.no sun. nowhere to go. Nothing to do. Brazil first day disappointment. Is this the comedown from previous days of workaholic behavior? Total need to organize, plan and control our environment..just like at home… When will vacation mode kick in?
Walked streets around hotel eclectic group of shops from pharmacies to health food store to art gallery, banks and flip flop shop.

Due to above-mentioned Brazil first day stress and mixed with a bit of PMS, Cyndi has a meltdown and crawls into bed, not before noticing the beautiful roses mom had had delivered to the room. Thanks mom! Mom, insensitive, but trying to uplift the birthday girl’s spirits, welcomes a parade of hotel staff. Please note that Cyndi is in bed under the covers during all of this, occasionally covering her head with the sheet recovering from the meltdown.

Entry 1: Waiter with chocolate ice cream (mom had noted that Cyndi was craving this.)
Entry 2: Maids with good night chocolates. They were so delicious, that mom stuck her head out the door to say yum yum, and the maids promptly handed her more.
Entry 3: Staff member appears with crystal vase for roses, and mom tips her a rose.
Entry 4: 2 hotel staff walk in with a tray of sweets, small gift box and card. We are both surprised! They enter saying, “Excuse me. Sorry.” Clear table by window, removing our purses, etc; and put out white table cloth with plate, sweets, etc. It turns out to be a birthday gift from the hotel.

Evening
Feeling like nothing to do in Rio. Rainy. Mellow. And don’t seem to be many activities around our hotel.

Mom goes down to figure out some fun night activities. I get a much needed nap. Vitor at the desk at first says, “ Oh..Tuesday night... there’s nothing to do… “ But wait! Isn’t this high season?! Where are all the tourists? They must be doing something! He does find out about a place with a band in Lapa. And there are supposedly a lot of bars around there.

The hotel arranges a taxi – R$30 flat rate. We get to the neighborhood, and it is super cute…all cobblestony. Closed off alleyway. No cars allowed. I decide I need a cocktail and mom needs a rest. The first place we see is adorable – Santo Scenarium!! The interior is all mirrors, cloth hangings, angels and candlesticks - a totally religious motif and gorgeous. The entry to the bathroom had a podium with a bible in Portuguese. The owner is just the cutest ever.. a gaucho from the south with excellent English. He offers an array of options for mom – the vegetarian – who is hard to please foodwise in Brazil. “Vegetarian? Haha! I don’t know where you can get that type of food! Not in Brazil!” But again, a fine example of Brazilian hospitality. The food is amazing. As we eat, we watch a steady stream of revelers going to the Rio Scenarium with the crowd thickening at the door (pic below). And again are astounded by the array of colors, not knowing which ones are tourists. We are also surprised to see the passion as lovers show obvious PDA. So Latin; so non-American!

Across the street is a charming cafe with a male singer on a guitar crooning Brazilian music. Looking at this place, we wonder, is this the hot bar we saw in the magazine picture mom had given me in Reno as a clue to my secret Birthday vacation destination? It looks very similar, but somehow not quite right.
Went to Rio Scenarium …. 4 stories with great bric-a-brac all over. A blend of antique mall, rock concert venue, with a Rocky Horror elevator – which we rode, of course. Great music. Watching folks dance on the dance floor, we fell in love with this beautiful dance.. wondering what it was.. the samba. Decide we must take Samba lessons.
On the third floor, approaching the balcony, we realized that this place was the same place as the “clue” picture.... we had found –happened upon – via Victor, the “hottest” place in Rio on the first night.

Taxi driver wouldn’t take extra money. Fare was 20.80. Mom gave 20. Driver wouldn’t take extra 1-2 she was trying to give. Again, a fine display of Brazilian graciousness and hospitality.

Day 1 Summary
We did a lot of complaining, wondering if we should leave – go to the Amazon, change hotels at least to more lively location, etc. In writing this today, we are enlightened, understanding that all of that was just tiredness, comedown from workaholic mode, our ridiculous obsession with perfectionism and not yet being adjusted to the pulse of Brazil.

Happy Birthday is called Feliz Aniversario, which is so cool when you think of it in the American interpretation of anniversary –that is, something involving two people. It is a true Aniversario of our 40 years together.

Camping at the Friends of the Black Rock Rendezvous, May 2008

2008-05-27T19:05:00.000-07:00

camping in my new (used) trailer on the Black Rock Playa, Memorial Day 2008. Can't find it? Next time, come with me. A glorious place on this earth.

Photo taken by my new friend, Ben Willett

2008-05-27T18:26:00.000-07:00

Off to adventures in the Black Rock Desert playa near Gerlach, Nevada. (Ben Willett took the picture above)

Who is this happy camper? Me!!! On the Black Rock Desert Playa, one of my favorite places in the world. Pic taken by my new buddy Ben Willett.

Below is the scary playa driving after a rain. Mud and a sinking feeling that it might get deeper. But I'm back to write about it, thanks to Ben's off roading skills.

2008-05-27T18:21:00.000-07:00

Trego Crossing from the Playa over the tracks. What is on the other side?

This is why you cross the tracks at Trego Crossing: to take a dip in Trego Ditch. Wonderful water with currents of hot and cool water. Best is all the mud at bottom that is clay-like and can be sculpted into lovely faces and such while lazing in the ditch.

2008-05-27T18:18:00.000-07:00

this is a hot spring on private property - Camp David in Gerlach, Nevada, itself. The gate was opened this day and oh, how I wished David was home to ask permission for a dip.

2008-05-27T18:14:00.000-07:00

The tin trough used by bathers at Double Hot Spring. The pipe brings water in from the way-too-hot spring and then we move it aside to let the tub cool down, adding more hot water as desired. Ahhhh.

Double Hot Spring near the Black Rock in BR Desert. This is where the dog jumped in and owner jumped after it - both were killed due to the hot water. Her husband tried to save her and was burned from the waist down. Now there is a warning sign. This is a HOT spring.

2008-05-27T18:10:00.000-07:00

The Frog Pond on edge of Black Rock Desert Playa. You go on Memorial Day, it is occupado.
Warm pond adjacent to Frog Pond, built by Burning Man folks. All you need is a tent and a burn barrel for warmth.

2008-05-27T18:04:00.000-07:00

THE black rock at end of the Black Rock desert

Ready to sink into this inviting Black Rock hot pond?

the Black Rock Hot Spring in full view

2008-05-27T18:01:00.000-07:00

Dune and vegetation in the middle of the flat playa, forming around an underground spring - bubbling up in the middle. The area was fenced to keep ATV and other adventure riders from using it as a ramp.

C'est Moi in the Black Rock Hot Spring. I couldn't be happier.

(photo by Ben Willett)

Black rock hot spring on the Black Rock Desert, 25 miles from Gerlach, Nevada

2007-04-28T01:39:00.000-07:00

The Last Words

This is it, friends. I'm leaving tomorrow and you have a sampling of my pictures and thoughts. It is fitting to leave with an image of the Buddha, as he looks with compassion on the devoted. I spent the morning giving Reiki to poor (financially) cancer patients and it was a wonderfully rewarding experience. A way to give a wee bit back to these people who have opened their country so warmly to me.

I leave Thailand with these impressions: the people smile from their hearts, and genuinely welcome strangers. They want to talk to and learn from us and want to share their ways with us. They will walk 2 blocks, leaving their store, just to guide a lost tourist to her destination. They love their King and country, and live in close relationship to family and community. They strive to live the country's three pillars: Buddhism, King, country. Thailand is modern, clean, and with excellent health care. It is an exotic place with temples, tribes, modern art and architecture, and a lovely, lively, interesting culture. It is very hot and humid this time of year, and to compensate they have the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, with turquoise, blue/green waters. On the flip side, I've heard repeatedly about government corruption - a siphoning off of funds that do not go to improve living conditions. Politics are a problem - they are currently debating their 17th new consitution in maybe 50 years (just guessing time frame). They have regular peaceful coups, demonstrations, and yet nothing really changes. There are big problems in the South, where thousands have been killed in the last 2 years in religous clashes (Buddhism/Muslim). The standard of living is quite low in the country, and the water not potable - some of it comes out red from dirt that is not showerable unless allowed to settle first. Education is not compulsary and that holds back progress. The traffic is noisy and crazy, but there is cheap public transportation. So, they have their problems, but they are warm and secure in their friendships and family, and happy to be alive in this beautiful place. I love it here too. You should go.

Bell at Wat Souk Dok.

Me and the one with rough skin. On top is a tourist from Australia who is learning how to train the elephant.

Training elephants. This baby dumped the trainer within seconds of this photo.

I always wondered how they got Bamboo Shoots - well, this is it - raw shavings from the bamboo.

The two pics below are from an ancient city built about 12oo a.d. It was the original Chiang Mai location, but it was flooded repeatedly. When the last biggie wiped it out, they moved to the current location - perhaps 10 kilometers away.

Stupa from the old city. I wondered what that word meant as I saw it everywhere - it is this shaped structure as part of a Wat.

2007-04-28T01:11:00.000-07:00

The Hill Tribes in Northern Thailand. Simply Amazing.

I visited a village today that housed several of the Northern hill tribes. They are considered ethnic minorities in Thailand because they speak very different dialects and maintain their old ways. For example, they've been burning the fields to get ready for planting when the rainy season starts in May. BTW, the smoke created respatory problems for Chiang Mai residents, sending many to the hospital. Below, men are building a roof for a hut. They use dried leaves that must be replaced every 3 months. Don't think I'll complain about replacing my roof in the future!

Mama and babe - note her earrings.

Below are pics of the Karen Tribe. It reminds one of African practices.

This is a young girl, just starting to wear the neck brass rings. Karen woman in training.

Weaving-a source of income for the tribe. It looks very uncomfortable, but the women told me that they are used to it, so no problem. Plus, I imagine that it helps these poor tribes to earn money - letting tourists take pictures and paying some money for entrance into the village. This thought helped me get over the idea that it was a privacy intrusion and kind of "zoo-like." But the women seemed to enjoy seeing tourists and there were only a few of us around.

Teenagers, laughing and animated in conversation just like their peers worldwide.

Locally, the nickname for this tribe is "long necks.

The story is this about the hill tribe neck rings: In the past the men would go hunting and sometimes tigers would kill the women left in the village. So, they came up with these brass rings to protect the womens' necks. They also wear a few rings on each leg, right below the knee. Apparently they used to tuck leather under the rings, covering the lower leg and protecting them from snake bites. Although tigers still exist in the wild they are not such a danger but tradition continues.

Lotus flower in the village.

Separating the rice from the outer husk. The women in this village work this gizmo and then put the grain in a basket, shake it, and the husk falls out. Hoarder me, picked some of it up from the ground to bring home and show around.

2007-04-28T00:33:00.000-07:00

Chiang Mai!

This is the town everyone loves. Actually it is a city, second in size to Bangkok. There are lots of Farangs (foreigners) wandering about, and many who've moved here. It has the old world charm of an ancient city, complete with gates and a moat. There is a new age healing vibe with lots of yoga and even plenty of vegetarian restaurants. I like it here but haven't found it astounding, as expected. Maybe it was a too-high expectation or maybe it is the effects of nearly 4 weeks of travelling, wearing the same clothes, and sensory overload. The sight of monks wandering the streets and markets, of fabulous Wats (temples), and interesting transportation (tuk-tuks) has become "normal" and lost some of its exoticism for me. Still, it is a wonderful place. And I guess I'm ready to return home. Which is a good thing since today is my last full day in Thailand :-). OR it is time to dig in and stay put in one place as a way to really learn it more deeply. Schlepping has its limits.

In the news: a policeman regularly parks his car at the station with his 6 year old daughter sleeping inside while he is at work. Last week, following the same routine, he left the car running with AC on for the gir's comfort -- but, someone stole the car. The thief had no idea a kid was inside. The police put out an alert with the license number and a taxi saw the car, relaying it to other taxis. Eventually 100 taxis rallied to the scene and surrounded the car, catching the thief. The child never woke up during this so is no wiser to her accidental abduction. What I found remarkable is that the people (taxis) jumped in to help another Thai in need. This is so typical of these wonderful people. Do you see this happening in the U.S. or other first world country?

Below are some pictures of another wonderful Wat.

Monk taking pictures of Buddha

Lotus flower in foreground - We leave it as offering to Buddha.

I think this one is groovy - the Buddha sat on a river bank after his enlightenment and it started raining. A cobra came along and coiled, fanning above Buddha's head to protect him from the rain. This image is all over Thailand.

Northern gate to the old Chiang Mai city.

My modern hotel room. I note that as I am in waning days of a long trip, the weariness justifies a top hotel :-). I ended up moving from the hotel I booked online because it was 20 minutes from town in a very nice secluded location - meaning, no taxis out the door. Also, no tuk-tuks or other transportation people knew where it was, so it took me 1 hour to return home at night due to getting lost - this after giving them a map in Thai provided by hotel. Part of the adventure of traveling! No problem - just move on...

2007-04-25T07:51:00.003-07:00

In the News

A woman and 5 of her 6 children were taken from her home in Malaysia because the officials claimed she was Muslim and her husband Hindu so they were not legally married and she/kids needed removal for "re-education." They missed the 6th kid because he wasn't home at the time. The husband says this is a mistake - she is Hindu and they've been married for 17 years. Apparently her new ID card says Muslim (old one says Hindu but I guess she relinquished it when getting the new one) and when she presented it at the kid's school for their registration, they turned her in.

Now the husband is threatening a lawsuit because he wants them back. The Malaysian government is washing its hands because there is civil law and there is Islamic law, and since she is "Muslim," civic law does not apply. The government admits there are some inconsistencies between the two systems. The folks who took the family say that if the husband sues they will arrest him and charge him with adultry.

Tough life. I had no idea this kind of stuff went on.

2007-04-25T07:51:00.002-07:00

Learning Vipassana (Insight) Meditation

This is a Swedish woman (below) who showed up to learn meditation at the same time I did in Wat Mahathat, Bangkok. I was late because I got stuck shopping :-). This English speaking monk spent 3 hours with us! He described the process, discussed Buddhism, and answered all of our questions. By the way, he claims that reincarnation IS part of the Buddhist belief system, unlike what others have said. He is nearing the end of his 1 month stay as a monk. When asked, he said his is doing it to honor his family (having a son become a monk for even a short time is a good thing).

After an hour of discussion, he showed us how to do both walking and sitting mediation. You start with walking because it clears the mind better - the physical activity stops the thinking process some. I mentioned the process in a previous post (slowly walking and repeating the words for your actions three times in your mind (e.g., lift, lift, lift; prepare to turn, prepare to turn, prepare to turn). Then after 20 minutes of this, we did sitting meditation. Of course I complained about not being able to sit without leaning on the wall ("my back is killing me") and that I couldn't cross my legs for a long time... blah, blah, blah. He said, do it as comfortably as possible and then don't move for 20 minutes. If your leg hurts, think "pain, pain, pain," and if your mind runs, say "thinking, thinking, thinking" but don't let it get into a story. So, I did it for 20 minutes and did not scratch any itches (remarkably they disappeared shortly after thinking "itching, itching, itching.").

Then we had a debriefing. It was interesting. I found my mind doing all the stuff that runs me - like when I was doing the walking meditation criticizing myself for not going as slowly as the Swede could and for not having good balance, and when sitting, evaluating my experience so I'd be ready for the debriefing ("thinking, thinking, thinking.") And then planning, planning, planning... how I'd make a labyrith in the backyard at home so I could do this walking meditation outside...how I'd practice every day...how blah, blah, blah. Mental diarrhea. Guilty as charged.

I think this mediation is a good thing. It gives one an immediate awareness of every little mental thought or physical twitch competing for attention. Once acknowledged, it seems to disappear. It can return, but then you just do the three time process again. Yeah, this is the practice that can lead to MINDFULNESS...living in the moment. I want that. ME, ME, ME, teacher....

Helena, the Swede, and me with our teacher after meditating. He gave us his e-mail address: joe 12xx@hotmail.com :-). Before the photo he reminded us "don't touch me." While walking on the street I had to always remember to move away from monks because they are not allowed to touch women - and not look us in the eye, either, except for this kind of situation. Helena and I hung out some afterward - it was great to talk with another woman traveling solo.

2007-04-25T07:51:00.001-07:00

Miscellany

Train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. Kinda grubby, but great service.

MBK shopping mall in Bangkok. Interestingly, the malls are filled with small stalls like this - and just an occasional department store. It is more like a street market with air conditioning.

$49 hotel in Cambodia, complete with lovely pool, great food, and beautiful rooms with AC. The staff, like all Cambodians were wonderful. The grounds were meticulous. Superlatives for these Asians, once again.

2007-04-25T07:51:00.000-07:00

Tourist Meltdown

Finally, it happened... I took an overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (12 hours) and didn't sleep well. Ate nuts and raisins because all the food had meat. Got off the train in sauna-like 50 celsius heat (over 100 F), and asked a taxi driver to take me to my hotel: the Golden Cupid. He said sure, I know where it is, 100 Bhat. Then he took my confirmation paper and saw there was no address and revealed he didn't really know where it was. I said "you lied to me." He agreed... So, here i was, tired and hot and unshowered, and no address or phone for the hotel that no one had heard of. Well, it was highly rated on Tripadvisor, but Expedia didn't think of presenting location info with the confirmation e-mail.

So, I saw an Internet computer and went to look it up - decent solution. Meanwhile, the taxi driver lingered about a foot from me. I asked him nicely to back away - about 5 times. Then he finally did and sent two buddies to ask me if I wanted a taxi. They all have this way of "claiming" you - the first one to ask, tells others to back off and if you go with another, the first gets a cut. Also, the Asians have this idea of personal space that is 1 foot from each other and that does not fit my American social space needs... They watched over my shoulder while I checked e-mail, reading to see if they could see a hotel address, and I finally became THE UGLY AMERICAN. Ok, not that bad, but just turned around, raised my voice quite loud, and put up my hands and said "everyone please leave me alone!" Then I walked out of the train station with address/phone number, into the street and got a tuk tuk (motorcycle with two seater on back).

While riding, I recalled my day before. I was at Wat Marahat learning Buddhist mediation for 3 hours. It was wonderful. More on that later, but the procedure--while walking as slowly as possible, for example--is to say each thing in your mind 3 times: lift foot, lift foot, lift foot...lower foot, lower foot, lower foot, tread, tread, tread. It is a practice that gets one to be more mindful of every body/mind thing in the minute and to not let a story in the mind or body run on and on while one is doing something else.

Soooooo -- back to the tuk tuk: hot air, hot air, hot air; agitated stomach, agitated stomach, a.s.; road vibrating, road vibrating, road vibrating; thinking, thinking, thinking; tired, tired, tired; Thailand, thailand, thailand; beautiful trees, b.t., b.t ... It worked! I got right into the pleasure of the moment again and did not rehash the train station unpleasantness...
I must also say that something I learned on my weekend with Tracey at Taylor Group helped: Responsibility is not blaming anyone for what happened, including yourself, but just going forward with a solution.

The new and improved Judy.

2007-04-23T08:13:00.000-07:00

Going to Work in Cambodia

Early morning glimpse of the industrious folk. Well, except for the wee one below.

Dreaming in Cambodia.

Fishing on the lake...in monochrome.

Monk taking a morning bath (see soapy body and nearby water pump). I'm so grateful that these lovely Cambodians let me take such intimate pictures as this.

Dad and son cruising in the mobile mini-mart. Can you believe all this on a motorcycle?

This woman is cutting ice with a saw, in the market. I think the village people must only have iceboxes - big guess.

Lots of Cambodians carry stuff this way. We are so lucky in America.

Carrying coconuts on bicycle. Many people ride bikes to work, some with their wee kids in front and another family member behind. They must have amazing calf muscles! The more fortunate ones have motorcycles to carry the family.

Carrying hay on bicycle.

This woman is spreading out some kind of lake snail in shells so they'll bake in the sun. This is at the local market.

Man at door. Duh... just an image I enjoyed.

I had a nice long chat with this monk, in a Wat across the street from my hotel (through a kid translator). He was very interested in my life and said really complimentary things to me ("I can tell you are a good teacher...").

2007-04-23T07:57:00.000-07:00

Tonle Sap Lake, Cambodia (near Siem Reap)
This is a huge lake - about 40 kilometers wide. It is only about 1 meter deep right now because Cambodia is at the end of the dry season. All the rice paddies are dry ground too. After the rainy season this lake will be 8-10 meters deep and much wider. The people live on this lake during the dry season and move into the hills when it rains. It is much cooler here and they have plenty of water - even though it is a pretty polluted. This is poverty at its finest. I really felt humbled by seeing how people live here. They do have a floating school, library, and even a floating basketball court.

One thing that really amazed me is how they love having me take their pictures. They pose and smile - I don't think I'd enjoy lots of tourists driving by my house and snapping pics all day. These Cambodians are truly wonderful and friendly people, very interested in tourist stories. Many speak a little English (they learn English and Chinese in school). According to one tuk-tuk driver Cambodia's worst problems are government corruption and education. The rural people only get a few years of school because it is not compulsary. Another thing that amazed me is how clean and fastidious they are. I saw women sweeping the dirt roads to remove rubbish, and their clothes are always spotless and ironed.

The woman cover up completely when out in the sun. It is cooler, but also in these countries, darker skin means lower on the social totem pole.

Stuff is really cheap here - I had many wonderful $1 meals, and my lovely hotel was only $49 (with AC and pool). There is so much more to say, but the bottom line is: GO and see for yourself.

This boy came up to our boat to ask for money.

She's washing her baby while he works on the boat. To wash the kid involves him jumping in the dirty lake, mama soaping him down, then mama pouring fresh water from the buckets over him. They have to paddle into town to get fresh water from the community wells.

Boat house and apparatus for keeping the wood dry - I assume it is for cooking.

Mobile Mini-Mart

2007-04-23T07:37:00.000-07:00

Ankgor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia

This complex is about 21 square miles of temples, in various states of ruin. They were built between 1000-1600 or so, and some were to honor Vishnu and the Hindu gods, and some the Buddhist religion. I'm on a $30 an hour computer right now and don't have my guide book so I'll make this short. It was AWESOME. Thanks Dave Archer for recommending this side trip.

Monk at the main temple of Angor Wat - the biggest religious structure in the world.

Angor Wat at sunrise - yes, another 5 a.m. wake-up for me.The temple has 4 entrances in front - Middle one for the King, two side ones for worker bees, and the right hand one for elephants.

Looking up into the light in one of the other temples in Angor Thom.

Mama and baby on the Angkor grounds

One of the pools. It has been 100 F. and humid. I've learned two things about this kind of heat: 1) it is truly better to wear loose fitting clothes that cover the body entirely (better than shorts), and 2) noon to 4 p.m. is hammock time.

Cleaning the moat around the Angkor Wat temple - moat surrounds it completely except for the causeways in.

This was a amazing at it looks. A temple being reclaimed by nature. This is Ah Phon (don't know if I'm spelling it right), where Tomb Raiders was filmed.

Here I am, standing where Angelina Jolie made a movie. Look just like her, don't I?

Elephants after giving rides into the temple complex. Note the first guy checking his cell phone.

Cambodian dancers.

The West entrance to Angkor Wat

2007-04-19T21:17:00.000-07:00

On Security
The Thai pharmacist I met on the train is planning to visit the US but he told me he is afraid. He thinks America is a dangerous place to go, and this opinion is shared by others (according to him). It is not the crime, typical of all big cities. Or the Virginia Tech shootings, done by a madman. It is because so many people in the world hate us now - that makes it dangerous.
I had to admit that he is right, although we American optimists overcome this fear and believe it will change soon with a new President.

I reminded the Thai that there have been several bombings in Bangkok since November 2006, and that thousands are killed annually in the south of Thailand near the Malaysia border (religious disputes between Muslims and Buddhists). The pharmacist had to admit that Thailand is just as dangerous, but he is optimistic :-).

Also, on being dropped at my Bangkok hotel yesterday, the gate security people made the taxi stop and open the trunk for inspection.

I also noted that security in airports is quite varied. I had the usual liquid check leaving the US, but not at all on any domestic Thai flights - just a machine scan of luggage. In Hong Kong I had to go through another security check even though I was in transit to Bangkok in the gate area, and had to take out all electronics, including iPod but not remove my shoes.

Let's see how it is in the Cambodia flight.

2007-04-19T21:07:00.000-07:00

Early Morning Scenes

In a non-tourist town, this is the kind of breakfast you get. I was able to point to the eggs and receive a lovely plate of chow for $1.

I came across these wonderful women exercising along the river. They are doing a type of Qi Jong or Tai Chi but with fans. We had a nice chat afterward and they invited me to try it, but they were about to stop so I didn't get a chance. It looked very complicated and hard.

I'm writing this with my fancy Bluetooth keyboard and new PDA while in a train to Bangkok. I think my father would have loved this idea. He always wanted me to take the Orient Express across China, and this is a budget version. It was about $20 and they serve 2 hot meals and a snack (all meat laden, of course). I now understand why there is only one day train (the rest are all nighters with many sleeping cars). So far, it has been very rural - about 7 of the 10 hour trip thus far filling the windows with coconut and banana plantations - and an occasional sea glimpse. Still, I managed to have a 2 hour chat with a Thai pharmacist.
Imagine me, on a train to Bangkok. It just sounds as romantic as it is. I am filled with gratitude for having this opportunity. I just wish those of you who are reading through all this mind dumping were with me.

Interestingly, the one downside of traveling solo - no one to share the joy with - seems solved by writing a blog. I hope someone I love has the time to read it, but no matter because it is mostly in the expression that delight me. And I surely do not want to "cling" to outcomes :-).

I forgot to mention that I've hooked up with a few solo travelers now. In Samui I spent a lot of time chatting with a German, and then totally bonded with a French guy in an Internet Café when he saved all my photos on the camera's HD card from a horrible trojan virus I picked up at another Cybercafe. I'll be careful before I put this card into another computer. I've also enjoyed chatting with several English speaking Thais on busses and such.

Ciao for now! Tomorrow: Angkor Wat in Cambodia!

2007-04-19T20:49:00.000-07:00

5:30 Wake up Call
I did it. Got up and went to the market before sunrise to give alms to the monks. Wow. I just bought things like milk and rice wrapped in banana leaves, and then when a monk came around (about 100 came around within 1/2 hour), I held it out and he opened a little brass bowl to accept it. Then, following the example set by others, I put my hands in a "Wai" (prayer like with fingertips touching forehead) and bowed to the monk. He said some Thai words to me - probably some blessing in thanks for the food.

People give food to the monks because they believe it earns them "merit" for the next life, which in my view is not part of the selflessness of Buddhist beliefs. I gave it because I'm very supportive of a person who lives this monastic life, most for a short time, to learn how to be a better person by following the Buddha's teachings. It takes sacrifice and will make the world better, even in a small way (the "butterfly wing flapping in Amazon causing a hurricane" concept).
Then came the "little monks!" A line of little boys in saffron robes. I bought a box of Ramen-type packages and gave one to each boy. Most were very pious, but a few had big grins to see a Farang (foreigner) offering food.

When the bowls were full of food, they dumped them into baskets in a scene that reminded me of US kids dumping their Halloween candy at home. But these monks collect alms of food every day at sunrise, eat before noon, and don't eat again all day. I did see a few sweets in there, though.

Me (and my new pal), giving food to the "little monks"

I'm always amazed to see people up and active at such an early hour. I rarely see it at home because I'm snoozing, but it seems that the world comes alive in the wee hours - for me this is like what happens behind a closed refrigerator door because I don't see it and can only imagine :-). Here in Sarat Thani, lots of people buying their day's fish and vegetables at this market before they go to work.

The Morning Market at Surat Thani - yummy veggies above and rice in banana leaves below

2007-04-19T20:37:00.000-07:00

Hanging with the Monks
I went to Wat Suan Mokkhaphalaram today because Ajahn Duddhadasa Bhikkhu started this place and I'd read his book about Buddhism last week. It was marvelous - not the golden glitzy kinda Wat in Bangkok and elsewhere, but a nature place, as you can see in the pictures below. Bhikkhu was a scholar, writing many books on Buddhism until his death in the late 1990s. He blended Taoism, zen, and even some Christianity into his interpretation of how to practice the Buddha's teachings.

Picture at the Wat. I think it is about the Buddha spreading enlightenment. Can I be in the line?

Is he a monk too?

While I was wandering around, one of the monks approached me and invited me to spend the night in their women's dorm! I was tempted until I saw the wooden pallet they sleep on :-). "This is not a hotel," I was told, but a serious meditation center. People from all over the world come to spend 10 days or more living like a monk. I sat and reflected for some time, myself.
Buddhism is creeping into my center. Now that I read more and talk to Thais, I see that it is about service and being mindful when you feel pleasure which I now hear is OK to feel as long as it doesn't turn into craving. True Enlightenment is being "empty" of suffering - both pleasure and pain (because pleasure always leads to suffering when it withdraws). Longing for more is the root of suffering and wars. So just enjoy it when it comes and be mindful (= live in the moment to me and go with the flow).
This monk maintains that Bhuddhism is based in science, knowledge, and intellect, not philosophy, so is easier for me to take. It is about the nature of people and things on earth. He doesn't even want to call it religion. It seems to be all about leading a moral and peaceful life by getting rid of the ego ("I") and the belief that anything is "mine". So far I've heard of no creation myth, and no afterlife story although I have heard the G word mentioned. I had a long chat with a Buddhist Thai man on the train and he confirmed that the only spirits mentioned are those of nature, but they don't believe in one creator. Although many buddhists believe in reincarnation, it is not part of the original teaching. Also, the Buddha said that no one should worship images, statues, or look to people as dieties. It is just about finding peace within by eliminating clinging to things or outcomes. Of course they do have images of the Buddha, just as do the Christians with their images of Christ and cross, even though their teachings say worship "no graven images."

I'm definitely going to visit the Wat in Bangkok where English speaking monks teach meditation. In my Lonely Planet book they suggested doing this after spending some time in thailand, and I now understand why. It is more meaningful after seeing it and discussing with Thai people.

2007-04-19T20:24:00.000-07:00

The 400 Bhat Room ($12) in a No-Taxi Town.

Finally I've started to mingle with the people. First, the story of arriving to this glorious point. Took the ferry to Surat Thani from the island of Ko Samui. I was surprised to be standing 100 meters from the boat and be told to get on a bus. Why? The bus got on the ferry, we got off, then boarded again 1.5 hours later at the mainland dock. Then an hour ride to Surat Thani. I didn't know I was getting a bus ride when I bought the ferry ticket. A bonus! It is fun to travel like this - no one spoke English so I just followed the crowd and knew I'd end up somewhere near my destination!

View from the ferry between Ko Samui and Surat Thani - Buddha on the hill

Sooo, this Indian shop owner recommended the Hotel Tapee near the center of town, and I went for it. Safe, secure, and clean - well, except for a bit of rust in the shower. And, worth the extra 100 Bhat for air conditioning over a fan-only room ($3). Surprise! The restaurant is fabulous.
So, I've gone from $194/night in Phuket to $113 in Ko Samui, to $12 for a room here. Best, better, budget... The difference? No pool, little English at front desk, one knob for cold water in the bathroom sink, and no hangers. But, right downtown in the action, quiet (except for an annoying noise coming from machinery outside somewhere), and one of the best beds than I've had so far (not so hard). I am back to my hippie roots. Far F#@cking Out, dudes and dudettes.

PS. I wrote the above on the train, and now that I'm back in Bangkok at the Pathawaman Princess ($114 hotel) I most admit to loving the luxury of crisp sheets, western food, and exquisite service. The aging hippie...

Surat Thani is not a tourist town, so there are NO taxis and few English speakers. I got stranded at a Wat (temple) an hour north of town around 5:30 p.m. and was told that the public busses stop running at 5 and no taxis. This is because the people go back and forth to work and then no one needs a ride. I was about to stick out my thumb when a wonderful woman staying at the Wat called someone and he took me back to Surat Thani. I gave her a Reiki treatment in appreciation because she was complining about her throat.

The truck was full of kids and the fee was $600 Bhat - more than my room :-). Hey, I'm not complaining.
I wandered around Surat Thani a bit, down back alleys, and felt totally lost in the culture. It was wonderful. I love these Thai people. I think I'll return to Thailand sometime.The 400 Bhat Room ($12) in a No-Taxi Town.
Finally I've started to mingle with the people.

2007-04-17T07:46:00.000-07:00

Thais and Buddhism.
I just finished reading a wee volume about the principles of Buddhism, written by a famous Monk. It is this: Don't cling to anything. Lose suffering by realizing emptiness. Find emptiness by stopping the chain reaction from senses (taste, smell, touch, hear) to subsequent feelings of satisfaction or dissatisfaction about the sensory contact, to craving for more or for it to go away. So basically we should strive to be empty in our minds of all positive and negative because they are illusions anyway, and they can bring us joy and happiness but also suffering. You must give up both for the enlightened peace. A happiness beyond that normally felt. It is true that if the entire world did this there would be no war.

After much thought, I'll give up the negative but don't think I can ditch the joy :-). I read about this right before shopping and had second thoughts. I told the store owner, an Indian Sikh, that maybe I shouldn't buy anything pretty for my house so I could be happier like a Buddhist. He replied: don't worry, no one reaches that high level of enlightenment.

I'm going to visit and meditate at the Wat (temple) where this Monk lived and see if I can overcome my shopping desires...

I also read an interesting article about the Thai cycle of life. When a child is born the nearest revered Monk consults astrology charts and after quite a bit of thought picks a name for the baby. The parents use this, plus a nickname they pick themselves based on the baby's behavior in the first few days. I asked a pregnant woman if this was all true and she said, yes, for baby boys but not so much for girls because they are not as important here.

Speaking of Monks, every boy becomes one for a month to a few years, and some stay forever. This helps them study and learn to be a good Buddhist. Every morning the monks go around right before sunrise to ask the neighbors for food - which they gladly give. Monks eat before noon and then not again until the next morning - but they can drink water. This is to remind them of the difference between need and want: that you don't need food more than once a day, but you do need water.

Anyway, back to Thai cycle of life, when the baby reaches a month old, he/she is pretty sure to live, so they have a "fire-hair-shaving" ceremony. They shave the baby's hair and float it away down a river on a banana leaf. this is for luck and longevity. Then they tie cotton strings on the baby's wrists and ankles and all pray and give blessings.

Next is marriage with its rituals. Astrologers help pick the big date. Chanting by monks starts it off, and a flower chain joins the couple's hands. The most senior person in a village leads the proceedings and soaks the couple's hands in water poured from a conch shell. Blessings include monetary gifts that help cover the cost of the event. The more power one has, the more money they must give.

Finally, death. A wake is held for 5 nights and monks oversee it. The remains are cremated and there is a feast and chanting. According to the book I read, reincarnation is not one of the original Buddha's teachings. It is not an official part of Buddhism. The monk said that even if you haven't been able to live an enlightened life, you can do it in your dying moments by emptying your mind of all craving to stay on earth, and let emptiness and peace enter.

There is lots more, but this is a wonderful religion because although the Buddha is revered and his teachings important, spirituality is a very individual practice. The monks serve as models, but not as "god's" mediators, as in most other religions. It is very simple: don't cling to anything, and empty your mind of all craving, good or bad.

Maybe in my next life. For now I'm just glad to experience and learn more about this religion that is so appealing.

2007-04-17T07:30:00.000-07:00

Spa Day on Ko Samui

Why is this woman smiling? A two hour relaxing and Thai massage, the steam and cool pool, no one else around, and a tasty treat of carrot juice with spring roll and peanut/sesame sauce!

Overview of the steam room and dipping pool at Tamarind Springs Spa

Here is the cool dipping pool - note the bananas ("find Waldo").

This is the steam bath, with a wonderful herbal smelling steam. Note how they built it between two boulders.

2007-04-17T07:20:00.000-07:00

My hotel in Ko Samui (Best Western Samui Bayview). This is on the third biggest island in Thailand, with several nice beaches. Phuket's are better, though. This place is wonderful for relaxing, but there are not as many diverse amusements for the eye and mind, either.

Me, hanging out in pool overlooking Gulf of Thailand. What a life.

The balcony off my hotel room. Not bad, eh? Especially useful because it is so hot and humid here that every day I have to wash everything I've worn and hang it to dry here.
Below - another view from my balcony: over the pool. I've been swimming lazy laps at 7:30 a.m. What is wrong with me? No computer, that is what...

2007-04-17T07:05:00.000-07:00

Took a several mile walk today, and this is what I saw

Lovely palapa on a sand isthmus between river and ocean. In the foreground is Water Hyacinth, a plant that once imported promptly spread like crazy and clogged many waterways - like this one.

Girl making a funny face while playing in the dirt

Interesting way to sell (and spell) Gas! The barrel is full, and I think they mostly service the millions of motorcycles.

Huh? Kinda hard to find my way around since I don't know the language. We ethnocentric Americans who only know one language have prevailed, though, because everyone in the tourism industry knows a little English. I've not seen one other American tourist - mostly Europeans and Asians, and they all get by in English. I'm grateful for all those who went out of their way to speak my language.